Articulates Metamorphoses
Spring/Summer 1996

Fashion show in the Trianon on October 16th 1995 at 9 p.m.

In this story, I mix the human element with insects. The collection is divided into three families, shells, fireflies and metamorphoses. I deal with mutations, transformations; it is the extrapolation of what plastic surgery could give us.

I invent a world where women can have eyes of different colours thanks to lenses with geometric and artificial drawings on them. Mouths are outlined with a black feather. Iridescent and pearly skins. Nose pierced with spangled wood. Antennae of thin branches grow on the skull or the forehead. The hair is pulled back, lacquered and twisted into buns, thus creating outgrowths − Other heads are more unkempt and waved, as if acting casually. Half-animal, half-human.

Back glazed high heels, clothes made according to a net of seams. ‘Butterfly sleeve’ t-shirt with an insect-woman on it. Corsets made of leaves. Very thin jewels made of optical fibres or feather stems. Rangy bodies with narrows shoulders. High neck tops. Very long backless dresses ending in a pointed train. The garment is dissymmetrical, in search of an equilibrium. Fragments of materials are superposed.

Working with me: casting by Maïda, lights by Thierry Dreyfus, sound by Warrio, hair by Barnabé, make-up by Topolino, jewels by Eric Halley, shoes by Cyd Jouny and the ANDAM of which I am the prize-winner that year.

In the Bains Douches, I am awarded the ‘future great designer’ Venus.

Three silhouettes are in the collections of the Musée des arts décoratifs, rue de Rivoli in Paris.

Photos : Gilles Tolédano, DR, Eric Traoré, Fred Sathal, Gauthier Gallet.